DIY: How To Construct A Storage Cupboard With French Doorways (Half 1 – The Fundamental Construct)

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Have you ever ever questioned how to construct a storage cupboard utilizing leftover French doorways? Okay, in all probability not. 😀 However I occurred to have some unused French doorways available that I faraway from our pantry, and I saved them as a result of I used to be sure I may discover a use for them. After which once I determined that the water closet space of our grasp toilet wanted a big cupboard, I knew I had discovered the proper use for these French doorways. Right here’s what they seemed like after they had been on the pantry…

And right here’s what they appear to be on the very primary construct of the brand new DIY toilet storage cupboard…

Earlier than I even began constructing the cupboard, I first used my round noticed to chop down the doorways. You’ll discover within the photos above that when the doorways had been used as common inside doorways, the highest and backside rails had been wider than the facet stiles. However when used as cupboard doorways, the rails and stiles must be the identical width. So as soon as I bought these minimize down, then I used to be prepared to make use of these doorways and their measurements as a leaping off level for the remainder of the construct.
That cupboard nonetheless wants a complete lot of trim, perhaps even some cute little ft, and cabinets inside. Then I can paint and prime it. However all of that shall be pretty simple, particularly in comparison with the principle a part of this construct. I’ve by no means constructed a cupboard this huge that wasn’t built-in, and I’ve discovered that constructing built-in cupboards is a complete lot simpler.
Constructing a big freestanding cupboard isn’t essentially tough, however discovering the work area for it’s a problem. And since I work alone, and there’s no manner I can carry such an enormous cupboard as soon as it’s constructed, I needed to so all the constructing within the toilet, with about half of it being achieved contained in the small water closet. That was fairly a problem! 😀 However I used to be decided, and I bought it achieved. Now I can transfer on the enjoyable half — the trim and the ending.
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Right here’s how I constructed the storage cupboard…

1. Reduce the principle items

To chop these items, I used my round noticed together with a Kreg Round Noticed Information. Step one was to chop the again piece out of 1/2-inch plywood. All of my measurements had been primarily based on the doorways I wished to make use of. The width of the 2 doorways collectively was 36 inches, and the peak was 70 inches. So I added 7 inches to that width (3.5 inches for either side) and 13 inches to the peak (7.25 for the underside and 5.75 for the highest — numbers I pulled proper out of skinny air as a result of I believed they might look good). So I minimize the again piece to 43 inches vast and 83 inches tall. Once more, this was all primarily based across the measurement of the doorways, which had been my start line.

After which I minimize the 2 facet items to 13.5 inches vast by 83 inches excessive, and two high and backside items to 14 inches vast and 43 inches lengthy. I minimize these out of MDF just because I had some massive scrap items of MDF available, so I saved about $70 by not having to buy a bit of plywood for these items.

So as soon as I had my foremost items minimize, I began with the 2 facet items…

And the again piece….

2. Connect the again to the edges

Standing one of many facet items up on edge, I positioned a bead of wooden glue alongside the lengthy edge…

After which I lifted the plywood again up on to that edge, made positive they had been aligned, after which hooked up them utilizing 1.5-inch 16-gauge nails in my nail gun. I didn’t use screws as a result of I don’t like screwing into the sting of MDF. So long as I’m utilizing wooden glue and nailing the items about each 4-6 inches, I utterly belief 16-gauge nails to do the job.

Then I moved to the opposite facet and hooked up the second facet. That gave me the beginning of the principle cupboard field…

3. Connect the highest and backside items

Subsequent I hooked up the highest and the underside items, which had been the ultimate items of the principle field. The items had been 14 inches vast (the width of the facet items + the thickness of the plywood again) and 43 inches lengthy (the identical because the plywood again). I hooked up these items additionally utilizing wooden glue and 16-gauge nails, and I used one on the highest and one on the underside.

At this level, I stood the field upright and moved it into its location, the place I’d have to complete the construct. Once more, since I work alone, and there’s no manner I may have constructed this exterior after which moved it in on my own, I needed to do the whole lot in place in order that I may simply slide it the place it wanted to go.

4. Connect the stiles

Since I used to be utilizing precise wooden inside doorways for the cupboard doorways (that are thicker and heavier than precise cupboard doorways), I wished so as to add extra help and power to the edges the place the doorways can be hooked up earlier than I began including the stiles and rails to the cupboard field.
I added this power and help by gluing and nailing 2″ x 2″ pine lumber on the within of the field. I hooked up these utilizing wooden glue and 16-gauge nails, nailing it from the skin of the field by way of the MDF and into the pine lumber, ensuring that the entrance edges of the lumber and the MDF had been completely flush.

Right here’s a better view after the primary one was hooked up. And once more, the aim of this was so as to add power. I didn’t wish to connect a heavy wooden and glass door to a stile that was solely hooked up to the sting of MDF. This gave me 1.5 inches of actual, stable wooden to connect the facet stiles to.

For the stiles, I used 1″ x 4″ pre-primed fingerjoint boards (which are literally 3.5 inches vast), and utilizing wooden glue and 16-gauge nails, I hooked up these to the two″ x 2″ pine boards that I had simply hooked up.

I truly doubled up these facet stiles, utilizing two 1″ x 4″ boards stacked on one another and hooked up one after the other, to make the stiles thicker. This was solely essential as a result of I used to be utilizing precise inside doorways as my cupboard doorways, and I used to be planning on putting in the doorways in order that they had been inset. For the reason that doorways are 1.5 inches thick, I wished my stiles to even be 1.5 inches thick. Had I been utilizing common cupboard doorways, that are typically solely 3/4-inch thick, doubling up the stiles would have been utterly pointless.

I repeated that complete course of on the opposite facet of the cupboard field in order that each the left and the fitting stile had been hooked up earlier than transferring on to the following step.

5. Connect the underside rail

Subsequent, I hooked up the underside rail. After measuring the area between the stiles and verifying that it was 36 inches, I minimize the underside rail out of 1″ x 8″ pre-primed fingerjoint boards. I doubled up the thickness on this piece as nicely in order that it might match the thickness of the stiles, after which I used my Kreg Pocket Gap Jig to drill pocket holes in every finish of the rail.

By the way in which, that is the Kreg Pocket Gap Jig that I’ve, and it’s AWESOME!! It’s a tremendous improve from the unique one which I purchased. I feel this model is a reasonably current product, and I extremely suggest it.
I put the underside rail in place, checking for sq. and holding it into place utilizing two clamps (Tip: You should utilize the 45-degree angle clamps as common clamps so long as you employ scraps of wooden underneath the facet with the sharp half).

As soon as I had it lined up excellent, I screwed it into place utilizing the pocket holes I had simply drilled into this piece.

As soon as it was hooked up, I checked for sq. one final time to make certain it didn’t shift once I was screwing the piece in place.

And right here’s what it seemed like at this level — a quite simple five-sided field with three of the 4 entrance edges coated with trim items.

6. Set up the doorways

On a traditional sized cupboard with regular doorways, I might have put in the highest rail subsequent. However since the whole lot on that is so huge and heavy, I made a decision to put in the doorways first, after which set up the highest rail after the doorways had been put in. That simply appeared simpler in my thoughts. 🙂
Earlier than lifting one of many doorways into place, I wanted a spacer to offer me about 1/8-inch of area between the underside rail and the door. I discovered that two strips of 16-gauge nails had been just about the proper spacers. So I taped two strips collectively…

After which taped these to the underside rail in order that I wouldn’t knock them off whereas lifting the doorways into place.

Then I may elevate and set the door proper on high of these spacers, and with the hinges already hooked up to the door, the whole lot was completely spaced on the facet and the underside.

With the door sitting in place, I used a pencil to mark the position of the center hinge onto the facet stile.

After which to put in the door, I did the next:

  • Transfer the door out of the way in which
  • Unscrew the middle hinge from the door
  • Screw the middle hinge into place on the facet stile utilizing the information mark I had simply made
  • Raise the door in order that the holes for the middle hinge had been aligned with the middle hinge that was now put in onto the stile (The door needed to be within the open place for this, which made this course of very tough since I used to be working alone. this was tough working alone. That’s why you don’t see photos of this course of, however it was manageable.)
  • As soon as the door was hooked up to the stile with the middle hinge, then I may very simply connect the highest and the underside hinges to the stile. And as soon as I repeated that course of on the opposite door, that is what it seemed like…

    7. Connect the highest rail

    I made the highest rail in the very same manner that I made the underside rail, doubling up on the thickness and drilling pocket holes in each ends. The one distinction is that since I used to be utilizing 1″ x 8″ lumber, and I wanted the highest rail to be 5.75 inches, I had to make use of my desk noticed to chop down the width earlier than drilling the pocket holes and putting in it.

    However I put in it the identical manner — nail strip spacers taped to the highest of the doorways, high rail clamped into place, after which screwed into place utilizing the pocket gap screws.
    And as soon as that high rail was hooked up, I had the fundamental construct of the cupboard full.

    I’ve a complete lot of trim work to do to show this from a primary field with doorways into a reasonably cupboard, however that’s the straightforward, enjoyable, and inventive half. Getting the fundamental construct on this beast of a cupboard, and having to take action in such a small work area, was the difficult half. So keep tuned to see the way it all seems! And now which you can truly see a cupboard on this area, what concerning the colour? Follow white? Go along with a really pale pink? I’m personally nonetheless undecided on that.
    Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I transform and embellish the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You may study extra about me right here.
    I hope you’ll be part of me on my DIY and adorning journey! If you wish to observe my tasks and progress, you may subscribe under and have every new put up delivered to your e-mail inbox. That manner you’ll by no means miss a factor!

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